It is the Academy’s Corsair. I think the kit itself is old, but I bought it because of a beautiful decal of Cartograf. I have never made the F4U Corsair once in the past, what kind of feeling is it? I would like to build something perfectly model like a 1/32 scale of Tamiya.
Temporarily assembled and checked variously. It seems I will advance without so much putty fix working.
This time I will change the mood and paint small parts as much as possible with an airbrush. I am thinking about the order of painting and assembly.
Now I’m using the paint FS 34151, interior color of the aircraft, zinc chromate type I. Despite saying an efficient order, I forgot to paint inside the engine cowl. It’s not too much trouble, just wash the cup lightly and put the other color paint in. I currently have four airbrushes. Custom Micron 0.23 mm of Anest Iwata, and GSI Creos 0.5 mm, 0.3 mm, 0.2 mm. There is a risk that I forget to clean while leaving the paint if there are multiple pieces, I have to be careful. Later maintenance is troublesome when the paint hardens.
I wonder the mounting parts of the Corsair’s drop tank, maybe the Academy’s manual is wrong. I installed it by the original judgment because it does not stick parallel to the fuselage as it is in the manual. Perhaps the Tamiya 1/32 scale seems like this, so I guess this is OK.
After installing the cockpit parts of the rear panel, there was a gap on the ballistic board of the seat. I have to fill this indeed.
Just stick the instrument panel decal and it will look better.
Additional seat belt work.
It is an easy task compared to canopy masking of twin engine German fighter which I built last time.
I will work on the whole painting by doing masking work of various parts precisely. I like the way I paint the landing gear compartment later without masking, but which one is going to be efficient and beautiful finally?
It was a bad fit with the main wing and the machine gun, the large step was made, so I fixed it with putty.
This time, the color boundary line was finished cleanly. Overall, it will be painted separately with masking.
Well, the other day I bought the Steam’s game controller and wireless headset at Amazon, but the day was the sale once a year, I could hardly wait for the goods to arrive. It is unreasonable to wait for the shipment though the controller is not the sale item, the timing was a little bad. I think that it took soon to arrive if I order a little earlier. Mouse, keyboard, headset, and controller are all wireless so comfortable. Recently I’ve been playing games. Well, I feel like I do not need a controller to play STEINS;GATE…..
I’m pasting decals and drying it. I want to proceed earlier, but I will clear coat after drying a little more. I don’t have a trouble comes out later. I almost finished pasting the decals and maybe it’s completed in a little more.
This Academy’s Corsair kit can be assembled by selecting 1A, 1C, 1D. There are differences such as 12.7mm machine gun or 20mm machine gun. This time I made a type equipped with 1A 12.7mm machine gun. The right and left total 6 guns are quite a powerful firepower.
The bubble-type canopy with fewer window frames than the previous type is adopted, and a good view is secured.
The marking is Bougainville, Papua New Guinea, VF-17 17th Fighter Squadron Jolly Rogers in February 1944. After that, it is a traditional marking that is handed over to the US Navy’s 61st Fighter Squadron (VF-61), 84th Fighter Squadron (VF-84), 103rd Squadron (VF-103).
The kit seems to be a copy of Hasegawa in the 1980s, but I do not know well because I have never assembled Hasegawa’s kit. Overall, it is bad part fitting. Fitting of the small parts attached to the main gull wing is not good. Actually, I suppose it is a pretty old mold kit, it’s hard to build. The color of the decal is very good so it matches the gloss finish paint.
I can not see it unless I close my eyes too much, but painted the engine with chrome silver and black iron, and inking with black. I like the markings of the propeller unexpectedly fine.
The painting was gloss finished. It may be about 75% gloss in some places.
The same kill score decals are attached with a pair, I pasted them under the left and right canopy. Is the kill mark usually drawn on the left and right? Even so, he is an ace pilot.
The bottom of the fuselage is FS35164 Intermediate Blue and FS17875 White two colors. There are orange, red and green lights.
In the case of gloss finishing, I feel that it is enough to do weathering only inking. I did not do the too much extra washing, clean finish up.
Overall, I used WWII US Naval Aircraft standard color set of Mr. Color special color set. I think it is very difficult to mix this by myself. This aircraft is beautiful with good 3 color balance of dark blue, light blue and white on the underside. Hopefully, I can say it to other special color sets, I would like Creos to sell these colors separate retailing. I think it’s more user-friendly.
It seems the decal’s white is a little thin if it is a dark color, if I improve this, there is the only way to paint the nationality mark with the air brush. There is a tiny gap in the printing seal of nationality mark.
There is roughness when looking at the details, maybe I think whether the color tone is good and finished in a quite nice atmosphere. It would have been difficult to make these blue aircraft colors if I mixed the color myself, it was a correct answer using a set of Creos…
I am interested in models of tanks, airplanes, ships, military figures, I build it little by little when I feel like it. I am also interested in the history of war. My starting is Tamiya’s Military Miniature series in the elementary school.
From elementary school through university students repeatedly suspend and restart my modeling, it’s about 25 years of this hobby’s history.
Born in February 1970, I live in Tokyo. From February 2007 I was quietly doing a site called “Miniature-Arcadia”. It is being transferred to this blog with the same name from December 2016. My update pace is uneven, but please come to see here occasionally.