I started to make a battleship for the first time a little while ago. When I was in elementary school, I made a Nichimo 30cm series, Battleship Mutsu, but this was really like a toy, so this Kongo is a real scale model for me.
Bottom of the ship and the main body, deck are bonded first. I put a lot of metal weight in the body to increased weight. It is to avoid a lot of projections damaged by the tall bridge and chimney to fall. It is an unknown world, I became cautious.
Looking at the photo-etched parts, there are many additions of handrails, etc. There are plastic parts replacements as it is, but I guess it was not as much as I imagined. I hope to assemble photo-etched parts, it’s not very complicated.
I scraped the anchor chain for the meantime. I don’t think much about the rest…
The turret No. 1 to No. 4 assembly was completed including the photo-etched parts.
The bridge is almost done. There are many difficulties such as handrails.
There are slits in the exhaust outlet of the chimneys, they are like this when small bars are bent diagonally.
The photo-etched parts are used abundantly in chimneys and the others. By the way, I had mistaken the parts of the turrets with the photo above. I will correct it later.
Although the structures on the deck have not glued yet, I am worried that they will fit correctly, confirming it occasionally. It seems to be OK for now.
Even if hesitating, there is no help, I entered the painting process now. It is the ship’s hull red and IJN ship basic color.
When sticking a deck seal, the appearance changes a lot with a little work, so it is very interesting. I’m getting excited!
Because I attached the tables of the motor boats first, it was difficult to stick the deck seal. When using a deck seal, it should be glued at the beginning of making. But I think that it worked quite well for the first time.
It is halfway under construction work. I planned to attach them after assembling, such as searchlights, 11m motor boat, 12m motor launch, 9m cutter. The searchlights were masked in the glass part.
The large parts are installed roughly. I felt quite a sense of accomplishment at this point, but there are still many works to do. The attainment point of completion might be different from the person, but it would be better to do more detail works. But somehow I wanted to make another model…..
Up to now, I had five tweezers, I have chosen in a mood. The photo-etched parts assembly of the 1/700 scale ship model requires a very precise pointed tip, I used the Tamiya and Hozan with metal file finishing and sharpened it. Although Fontax tweezers are very easy to use, even Tamiya and others can adapt to this work after customizing them by myself. Canvas at the base of the turret, the painting is overflowing.
Kongo has two Nakajima E8N, catapult-launched, reconnaissance seaplane. Fujimi’s 1/700 aircraft parts are very well made. They are clear parts.
Almost finished attaching the parts. I will do a detailed painting from now. Even so, the linoleum part of the bridge, I have not painted yet, It is not very good as a process.
Battleship Kongo was built at the Vickers shipyard in the UK. She was a returnee. After that, Same type ship Hiei was built at Yokosuka Shipyard, Haruna was built at Kobe Shipyard and Kirishima was built at Nagasaki Shipyard of Mitsubishi. The name Kongo is derived from Mt. Kongo placed Osaka and Nara prefecture.
Japan was an enemy party with the UK in the Great East Asian War, during the Russo-Japanese War, we have a Japan-UK alliance, and we have learned battleship construction technology and others from the UK. British warship construction technology is world leading.
Commissioned: 16 August 1913
Displacement: 31,720 long tons
Length: 222 m (728 ft 4 in)
Beam: 31 m (101 ft 8 in)
Speed: 30 knots (35 mph; 56 km/h)
8 × 356 mm (14 in) naval gun (4×2)
14 × 152 mm (6 in) naval gun (14×1)
8 × 127 mm (5.0 in) guns (4×2)
20 × 25 mm Type 96 antiaircraft gun (10×2)
catapult x 1, Nakajima E8N(catapult-launched reconnaissance seaplane) x 2
The whole was painted with Mr. color, the details were painted with aqueous acrylic and enamel paint. Lightly expressing rust and washing.
Between the base and the turret, I adhered them because there was no gap which was not good looking. If I try to forcibly move it, may be able to come off the railings from the turret, I think that the turret will not be touched after completion.
There are 4 12m motor boats on the deck. This boat has a capacity of 35 people. There are other short boats, but there are not enough to save the whole crew. Previously, when a large-scale ferry marine accident in a nearby country, there was lack of lifeboats installed or there was a tight binding so that it could not be used. In the case of the Japanese Imperial Navy, I wonder the necessary number boats was not equipped. The parts of the hood of this boat are clear and ordered to paint white. It seems a campus hood with small windows on both sides. The battleship model of Fujimi after a certain time has made the mold of the detail very well.
As a drawback of my own, I did not grasp the setup of the ship model and the fact that I am not accustomed to handling the photo-etched parts, so I felt like the work would last forever in the middle of the assembly. And the hand stops on the way….. The adhesion after the painting will complete faster if the parts are arranged well. It’s also fun to be close to completion of the trial and error.
The search light made of clear parts did not shine so brightly even if masking was peeled off. It might have been better to have painted silver from the back. Still, it looks somewhat real because it is shiny under the light.
When installing fine parts such as handrails and painting with a brush, it is a high possibility that the beautiful deck seal will be dirty. Stain risk is less likely to be fixed by instantaneous glue after the handrail with metal primer and ship color painted. The deck seal is a good advantage without masking, but I use a little care in the installation work of the small parts.
Fujimi’s Kongo instructions, it’s easy to understand. I feel much more comfortable than the Yukikaze I made last time. I don’t know the details up-point of the ship model so well, so this kind of detail-up set is appreciated. Perhaps, I think that there are many points where the precision sense rises like handrails and bridges. The crane work failed, I recovered it with a thin fishing line but the shape collapsed. It may be that somewhat failure became inconspicuous when painting hull color. Has the failure hidden when painting hull color?
I could not put too much of antenna lines, some of them have been bent.
The anchor chain on the deck, I used Fujimi metal parts. If you want to make it more realistic, need a sold separately fine chain. Since this is the first battleship I tried using all the parts of Fujimi.
The deck seal takes a little money, but it is very appreciative because the texture of the wooden deck comes out with a little effort. I’m going to be a guilty conscience like cheating somehow, but the result is alright. The deck seal is also kept firmly in my stocks of the battleship even if I say something…
There are no bow and stern flag poles of metal parts, I used a brass wire. And since I lost the chrysanthemum emblem of the bow, I made it myself from the plastic runner. Really, only the loss of parts is a feeling of self-hatred.
Once I make it by struggling, the shape of the ship feels stuck in my mind. More than just looking at the photos, the experience of the model work impresses me the shape of the Kongo type battleship.
I tried shooting side by side with the destroyer Yukikaze I made before. The battleship is dignified and has a stately style.