It is a Trumpeter MiG-15. I wanted to build the metal body fighter. Many kits are under making, but for now, I bought a new cutting mat and I will try making an untouched kit.
I thought whether the work environment is messy, it’s the reason of various mistakes and lost critical parts. I changed the cutting mat to a larger one. Previously, I was using size A2 mat, after that I changed to A4 and I returned again. There is no stain at all, I feel good. I changed a small mat, too, for when I want to make models in another room.
Assembling the cockpit and the nose parts are surprisingly complicated combination, so I’m worried about it.
There are many points where parts matching is bad than the other trumpeter kits I built. There are also many Bali. The built-in of the 23 mm machine gun and the 37 mm machine gun at the nose was tight, full of parts. Since the muzzle is not open, I think it’s better to open them by design knife.
The jet engine is being assembled. Because it is being reproduced with such exaggerated parts, I want to decorate the engine visible after completing it. It is the Kurimov VK-1 turbojet engine. Is a copy of the Nene engine manufactured by Ross Louis. But it seems to be pretty difficult to buy the engine and disassemble, and make the exact same turbojet engine.
The instrument panel of the cockpit sandwiches a thin film between the plastic part and the clear part, but it is a little difficult to do. A decal may be fine for me. MiG-15 is a narrow cockpit, maybe I able to see the inside very small area. I tried to use a seat of U.S. modern jet fighters one. In the trumpeter’s instructions, the cockpit color was Blue Pearl, but I used Creos Mr. Color No.74, Air Superiority Blue. At first, trying to use a metallic color turquoise green No. XC07 (this was purchased before, but I did not use it for my modeling and just a stock), I mixed blue or green with it but mixed color was too vivid and no use for the cockpit.
A nose of a plane, a cockpit and a machine gun were built in and it was glued together. It may fail, but I started from where I can. I made a lot of gaps and steps needed to smooth them as much as possible.
I installed a weight behind the seat and let it flow a lot of instantaneous adhesive, it leaked through the gaps of the nose to machine-gun. It is a bad situation. There are lots of gaps.
I assembled MiG-15 all parts roughly. I think about jet engine, even if I display it, I do not have a platform to support the rear body, so I suppose it’s better to bond all of them.
Finally, in shape now. My impression that the part of the kit itself is not so good, anyway, it seems I can complete it. There’s no indication in this manual, I think it’s better to install some weight on the back of the seat.
I’m working to fill gaps and clean the surface. It doesn’t become clean, not completely satisfactory.
It’s strange. This headrest interferes the canopy, it does not close. There is no choice but to adjust the headrest shape.
This time I decided to seal the canopy and bond it before starting to paint. It is a paint after shaping the aircraft and the canopy smoothly with putty. There is a possibility that the mist will get into the cockpit if the airbrush is blown into the air intake.
I made a barrel of a machine gun with a brass pipe which was soiled with instantaneous adhesive. Pitot tube is built by joining brass pipes. There was a big gap in the side panel of the fuselage so I buried it with putty. Overall, I regrettably did not build up cleanly.
I understand that surface treatment is important for silver painting, but it is difficult to finish it cleanly. I painted it after polishing with #1000 or more, but it has quite unevenness.
The decal is hard and does not adhere. Is there a trumpeter’s decal being thin and soft and extremely hard? I used a decal softening liquid, but not effective, and I had to use more strong one.
Decals were broken. This is adding insult to injury. I will retouch with a brush as much as possible. As expected it is released in 2002, so it looks okay, but the film is deteriorating. However, it is wonderful that the white part is not yellowish.
It is a fighter a Chinese military dispatched to North Korea in the Korean War. It is marking of 1953. The whole body is silver natural metal, the aircraft number 2249 is displayed on the nose. On the cockpit side the kill marks, the nationality mark of the North Korean army on the aircraft. There is no marking same as the box art on the decal sheet.
The pilot was a Chinese army, but since it was fighting with the North Korean flag, we can say it’s a North Korean fighter plane. By the way, this “bis” means type #2 or improved type. Fagot is a code name by NATO.
There are some dirty area of the canopy, but it seems clear inside that the sealed and glued was successful.
The total production of MiG-15 is said from 15,000 to 18,000, and it was operated in the former communist region and a country closely related to the Soviet Union, used many countries around the world. So, the marking pattern is infinite.
The MiG-15 was good at turning and the rising power and acceleration power were outstanding, so the F-86’s pilot was wary of it. Is it simply that MiG-15 has three machine guns, F-86 has six, so the latter is predominantly in fire power?
There are clear parts of the nose and it is covered with radar or something. Although the triangular part is transparent, all around and inside are silver painted.
After inking, wiped it off the area run off the edge, I thought that it would not remain at all, but I see the effect when looking at the lower side like this.
I always tried tanking photo with AA batteries so that I could feel the size, but I forgot. After completed, the length and width are about 21 cm. Is it a kind of pretty small jet fighter?
The decal was broken and the left number was modified by hand drawing.
If you look inside closely, you can see the instrument panel inside. It is a bit difficult to shoot because the canopy is like a lens.
I put inking in red brown. Well, I wonder if black was better after all. Do you look like creaky plane? But unexpectedly the line of this kit is shallow carving and not remain much paint. Should I have carved the whole lines lightly before painting?
If you do not put in a weight, the rear will definitely go down.
This paint is Super Stainless of Creos Super Metallic series. Because it is a slight washing, it may change color a little.
Since surface treatment is not going well, I have to practice more. Next time, I would like to make silver clean paintings without washing, or minimum washing.