I have stocked only the Trumpeter artillery crew set for a long time. Then the crew was useless, I got this howitzer several years ago.
This kit has too many the part number misprints of the assembling manual. I felt it was the most brutal manual in the Dragon kits I have ever made. It was the level that I wanted to throw out, not the spelling mistake of the color names as usual. I actually thrown out around this photo in this March…..
Then, I restarted it because the artillery crew 2 kits stock will not be completed forever without starting. If it is a car, a problem may become bigger than a recall. Though the parts mold is sharp, the this kit is very disappointing.
Including the cylindrical part of the A47, often there are not indicated parts of the instruction manual, part number difference mistake is scattered.
The brass hydraulic pressure piston should be jointed to the plastic parts. If the plastics component was glued together like a picture, it was a mistake. It’s difficult to explain by sentences.
I am assembling the wheels and a pedestal part of the howitzer. There are many complicated parts, and not easy to understand how to assemble. The not cleared points will be considered later.
There seems to be no problem when I see it a little. My assembly might be a mistake. Since I got tired very much, I wonder shift to finishing up the SdKfz223 for a change…..
I have written only a bad point of the assembling manual. There are a lot of parts with the part of 2 legs, it is also complicated. The parts mounting layout is shown from the left and from the right, which is very helpful for my assembling.
Because assembling was over, they are memo photograph by various points of view before the painting. I wonder there are many mistakes.
The metal barrel is very good. I think these days manufacturer had a full of service spirit like this metal barrel often attached to the kit from the beginning. When it’s metal, complete round goes out easily, so such intention does whether you say that I increase in a precise sense. It may be complacence. The metal barren is easily reproducing true circle, and it will increase the precision. Even it may be a self-satisfaction.
By a puzzle-like assembling process, it was harder than expected. 15cm sFH18 Howitzer is quite big. This presence is interesting because I often made a small cannon on my palm.
I think the measuring instrument to have good appearance if perpendicular with the ground. Firstly, I intended to adjust it perpendicularly and adjusted it last, because the measuring inclined by the height of the slip stopper at the tail end.
The backside is reproduced as such, too.
Many artillery shells are attached. Now, the form is shaped. Processing of cleaning the parting lines is hard work.
There are the small goods including the working mats and the bursting charge.
The basic color is German gray.
Well, I failed. I would spill adhesive on the tire. A part of the tire has melted. I say that this is splashes of mud and want to deceive it, but it is considerably unnatural…..
I will dirty other parts equally in a good balance when I make here splashes of mud. After all, I fixed it. I piled photocoagulation putty and sharpened it. Still there was an irregularity and was difficult. Well, it became very better than leave it without a fix.
I blew a little light gray on a base of German gray.
An attachment is painted and a detail parts are painted. It will be completed soon.
15cm sFH18 is the German army’s main heavy howitzer. It was equipped on the Hummel self-propelled howitzer. It was produced approximately 5,500 by the end of the war.
Varies depending on the bullet type, the maximum range is about 13,000m to 19,000m. Compared to the Russian Army cannon, it was inferior in the maximum range.
This kit angle of elevation was movable, but I was worried about the durability, so the movable points were glued firmly.
This way it looks, even the instruction was difficult, anyway the main body has certainly good appearance.
I like the metal gun barrel which I could omit the filing and accurate shape.
It is difficult to paint the red and white border straight on the measurement pole by free hand. Is there any tips to draw a straight line neatly with freehand?
I refrained from heavy tipping this time. I gave a delicate surface by a washing and emphasized an edge by a dry-brush lightly. I thought that this had better balance when I set it beside the shells not to do weathering.
The decal on the gun mount side has small letters, and exact feelings increase.
It is hard to see, the tools such as a shovel and pickaxe placed on the one of the main arms. I considered a balance of the worn-out condition of the metal surface and the rust for paint.
I felt like having made many white and red poles this time. It may be a mistake. It’s a good accent for the model.
If it is called a dragon, I’m waiting for the Patriot missile system which was scheduled to release on this April, but now not yet on sale. Dragon model had led the AFV model field with the highest quality kit before, and I’m disappointed the present situation. There are a lot of legacies of the dragon in my stock.
Sorry, the Dragon did the massive hike in prices recently, and I used the reproachful term. Anyway, I hope Dragon releases the Patriot set early!
I received a question from a modeler in the Netherlands abount a painting procedure. I introduce it here, too. As an example.
The painting procedure of the body and limber.
1. Airbrush paint in German gray overall.
2. Lightly airbrush paint on a wide part with brighter gray that mixed white in German gray.
3. Airbrush paint in black on a muzzle and the shadow areas.
4. Hand writing brush for tires, shells, an aim scope and the painting of the red and white poles and the pickaxe, etc.
5. Pasting the decals.
6. Overall coating of Mr.Color Clear.
7. Washing with enamel thinner and dark brown, the next is washing with enamel thinner with dark yellow.
8. Washing with a pastel (Mig’s pigment is famous for modelers) and enamel thinner and a little enamel clear for rust. Enamel clear is good for sticking the pastel particle, in case it’s too glossy, maybe needed matte clear coating.
9. Drybrushing in a buff and sand yellow.
10. The last is a drybrushing in a metal exposure part with metallic silver.
In Japan, the Creos Mr. Color is famous for lacquer paint. It’s very handy and strong paint surface. I usually use lacquer for basic paint and use the enamel paint for color adjustment. I suppose the Humbrol Enamel has many user in Europe.
For the howitzer loading part, I did lightly metallic drybrushing after blowing black.
I think the board on the left side of the cannon to be a calculation table of something. Because an etched parts mold is sharp, I thought that it looked good as it is…..
I let a mold clear by a little drybrushing. I am content that there is with detail as a character seems to be readable.
The limbers has good mold like the main body.
Feel of a material of equipment such as the mat improved by washing and drybrush.
The right of the top rounded shells are anti concrete shells (Gr.19 Be), The left are a common ammunition for the soft targets (Gr.19).
In fact, the painting of this equipment was unexpectedly taken a lot of time. It’s a good combination with the firing position cannon.
I displayed size AA batteries for an actual feeling of the size.
I thought the cannon has not so much appeal points compare to a tank model. After all, I took a lot of photographs after completed. The outward appearance was quite cool, I like it very much. It’s the fact that it was very difficult to assemble. It is perfect if I make the remaining gun crew figure.