I used a linked caterpillar set sold separately for AFV Club Tiger I. Built in March 2015.
At this moment, it’s a very old kit, it’s released around 2005. I began to make this Tiger I tank. Because this kit was stocked around four years, I thought it would be completed. I made a similar Dragon Models kit around six years ago.
I excavated such a thing from the depths of the closet. 2 sets of late type caterpillar and more 2 sets of early type. Maybe I bought them in the stage of the exchange rate in favor of yen strong but almost forgot it. Tiger I is also released from Zvezda and Tamiya, I’ll have a chance to use them near future.
Total parts are fewer than the Dragon Models kit which I made many times. Have a careful looking, belt caterpillar mold is very good.
Many road wheels, I’ used to making many wheels and speedy working. In this kit, all wheels are required to set in polycaps.
It’s late type, I may not exclude Zimmerit Coating. I prepared Tamiya and Wave epoxy putty. Because I attach parts immediately after coating, I assemble mufflers and other parts beforehand. The Tamiya epoxy putty is hardening time in 12 hours, Wave is 2 hours.
These clamp handles are molded on the body and other clamp parts are molded on the OVM parts. I think such a method is effective to avoid struggling very detailed many etchings.
I checked the road wheels straight from the lengthwise direction. And while covering the rear armor over this putty, I attached many parts at the same time quickly. This Tamiya putty has 12 hours to fix, I could go for shopping. On this front armor, I made some battle damage.
In this kit, very few photo-etched parts but effectively. Nice engine covers attract detailed appeal.
I returned to this coating work. It’s good to use a skin cream as this Mentholatum to prevent putty sticks to the roller too much.
I thought coating came off here and there looks like used vehicle, I damaged the armor moderately. I trimmed neatly the end of the round hatch.
Belt caterpillar looks not bad, detailed mold and fitting with wheels. I wonder this belt is adhesive with normal plastic cement.
Here’s connecting movable caterpillar. Even one side is very long, I use the A4 sized cutter mat to the full diagonally, but still do not seem to be enough.
It’s Valentine’s Day today in Japan and it’s the day that girlfriend (lady) buys chocolate for a boyfriend (men), I am told that cake companies decided it. My wife bought cakes so today’s work is ended…..
The assembling is not difficult. It is movable, I can round it as the photo. I finally adhere all with glue, but it’s big merit to be easy to do fine adjustment of the caterpillar.
The assembling of the turret was difficult. The left and right turret parts were a little deformative so I joined them together with using plastic glue and instant glue.
I buried the injection pin marks of the caterpillar in Tamiya light curing putty. This putty’s plastic cap was broken by age deterioration. The second of this was broken on the way, too. It is a feeling to be broken at times fixed like a timer, and to promote the next demand…. I think this cap should be replaced to some metal cap. Or I hope Tamiya release the adjusted metal cap with selling separately for a small price.
My forefinger got hurt a little by my nipper. It’s difficult to assemble even its small wound. I use Band-Aid, but maybe the instant glue may help to close my wound unexpectedly early.
I run out of Tamiya putty on the way, I used Wave and Tamiya together. Tamiya is sticky, easy to attach plastic surface very good and to shape with my spatula, but it is difficult to scratch, peel off from plastic plate.
As for the Wave putty, it’s dry and hard to attach to the plastic. It’s suitable to express peeling off the Zimmerit Coating with a design knife. Wave putty start hardening in an hour, so I recommend you to mix the putty little by little.
I wrote that I used Mentholatum on the above, but I think water is possible use. But this Wave putty is soluble in water so should be careful.
I thought it’s just the right feeling of that coating came off here and there, but slightly too rough? Anyway, I paint the peel off area in dark brown.
The spare caterpillar attaching mark molded on the turret was buried in putty, I checked the place with the art box and have a tidy layout as I can. Some are twisted, maybe it’s battle damage…..
To compare with the Dragon kit which I used to make, this AFV Club kit doesn’t have any remained parts in the runner. Next step is to start painting.
Recently I don’t use the surfacer before painting, but I use it this time as the multi-material colored body is not working well on the dark yellow.
I painted the shadow area on dark brown.
Very slightly remaining dark brown and painted base color dark yellow.
I thought the main color should be dark green very large, and to give the atmosphere of the German military tank of the last years of WWII, but like this photo is also OK, I suppose.
I might be finished in the three-color camouflage of the considerably complicated random pattern. I adjusted the color tone a little to mix dark yellow into the dark green and red brown, and totally united feeling of the overall tone appeared. When the camouflage paint is over, I felt an accomplishment feeling.
This attached decal was not soften on the rough coating, unlike Cartograf decals, even I used decal softer. Finally, I used plastic cement on this decal and anyway it’s attached. Some parts are melted so I need to retouch them with brush.
I just completed the AFV Club Tiger I latest type. The marking is Waffen SS 101st Heavy Panzer Battalion in Cean France in 1944. It is around the time of famous fights, Battle of Villers-Bocage.
The latest model characteristic points are the hinge of escape hatch on the turret, backside of the loader’s hatch, the size of idler wheels, muzzle brake, etc. In the first place, was it good for the latest model to do coating? Anyway, this time the coated tank is better looking.
I did washing strongly and emphasized the mold of Zimmerit Coating.
Back of this tank, I didn’t wipe the paint after washing, to express patterns of rain marks.
The last stage of WWII German tank camouflage pattern has the largest area color dark green. Maybe it’s more interesting to blow first dark green. I have another heavy tank of King Tiger Henschel gun turret and I’ll try this tank blow first green.
There are many items which should be painted in black as spare caterpillar tracks and wire ropes, hard working of hand writing brush. This time I cared to paint woody parts of wood texture.
I draw rain marks and scratch mark during running like parallel to the ground.
Mounted machine-gun aiming is a good accent of detail. I can see it from every angle.
Wire ropes are plastic parts. I have a mind to paint the wires like metallic texture. Of course real metal wire is better, but this part is almost OK for me.
Caterpillar and road wheels are shined, not so muddy.
Gepäckkasten(tool box back on the turret) mold is sharp and nice. I painted the inside of the muffler cover in dark brown.
Muzzle was burnt by the highly explosive blast-off, I blew in dark brown and drybrushing in silver.
Driver’s and Machine-gunner’s round hatch was able to be open-closed, but leave open prevents the turret turning. It will be broken if I handle too much so closing position is best. Periscopes glass was painted in blue, I suppose green or blue both of them OK.
Speaking of the 101st SS heavy tank battalion, the battalion commander was that famous Michael Wittmann around that time. Tank number 007 seemed to be his boarding tank. He was killed in action by an attack of the Sherman firefly in the fight of Villers-Bocage on 8th August 1944. He was one of the excellent tank commander during WWII.
I wonder it’s improved comparing this to the Tiger which I made before. I think it’s cooler than before, I had strong washing but modest weathering. The Zimmerit Coating was very difficult but enjoyable.