I found a photo of Tamiya’s Walker Bulldog that I made for a long time, so I put it on the back of the production note. It’s not so good finished. This kit was built from July 2012 to November 2012.
One of my stock, I started to assemble Walker Bulldog Light Tank. I made this tank of Tamiya kit very long time ago, probably 35 years ago. The tank model I made for the first time in my life.
Road wheels are divided into two parts and it’s hard to erase the joint line.
Just attached the suspension parts to the chassis. The suspension was divided so many parts, it’s a long way to reach attaching the road wheel to the body. At the bottom of the body, I can see the mold “2002 TAIWAN”, it’s just 10 years ago, the kit released. However, the original kit released was older because I heard the AFV club bought this kit mold from Skybow Model.
I suppose the drive wheel bonding part is weak. I filled the gap with the epoxy putty and completely fixed these parts. Very much putty was injected and I don’t worry that it’s not so visible.
Just attached the wheels to the body and I have a fine sense of achievement so far. Surplus epoxy putty, I used it to support drive wheel mounting pin from the back side. We can see escape hatch inside the body, it’s carefully molded.
Trying to use this workable track link. Friul Model also releases metal workable caterpillar, but it’s a little bit higher price.
Do you have benefits of change from rubber belts to workable caterpillar? This photo’s under 2 belts are rubber. The top side is workable optional one. Mold of both of them are excellent so not much inferior for the rubber type. You think workable track assembly is troublesome, but it’s no big deal once you get used to it.
Caterpillar attached around the wheel to try. It’s not so big difference. But I like the feeling of each caterpillar plates are straight shape and round to the wheel with the appropriate angle gradually one by one.
Recently, Tamiya’s rubber parts are adhere to use plastic cement so I thought it’s OK for these parts. But all the parts were peeling…. My ascetic monk like detailed work was in vain. It’s OK with considerable strength to use the instant adhesive.
The Caterpillar was just a little bit slack, feel good. I make sure to fix the positioning of all the workable parts with pouring plastic adhesive.
Chassis assembly completed. I used the Mag Lite for shorter hardening of light-curing putty. It’s very useful for this kind of work. I’m not sure how to attach some of the parts at the back of the chassis even though reading the instruction manual. I only guess the right position for these.
Turret assembly is completed. The aluminum barrel’s straight line is a good effect on modeling. Once I jointed the turret and body, it seems difficult to apart, so I only put on this turret on the body.
I suppose this turret shape is similar to King Tiger…
The main hatch is movable, open and shut. Because the periscope guard on turret left side and the main hatch base parts plastic was not enough flow in a metal mold, I adjusted with epoxy putty.
I’ll set up this Alpine US AFV figure next to this M41. This figure quality is excellent, about to start moving lively. I’m not sure to paint like sample painting, it’s almost impossible but I’ll do my best.
I blew thin layer of surfacer. After that, it seems heavier weight at this point than the bare plastic before. The surfacer is diluted to double the original bottling.
Small tips. Mr.Metal Primer has no nylon brush so I move it from my spare Mr.Cement S bottle. It’s very convenient to paint small area.
Painted in dark colors the hard-to-reach points.
Basic paint. All is lacquer paint, Mr.Hobby color, up to this point. I tried to airbrush with black on the road wheels, but after all, I will have to retouch all the miss painting part, so the only easy part, I airbrushed.
After blowing clear to the space of attaching decals, I used Mark Softer to adhere some decals. I think it prevents silvering the decals.I accented to blow a brighter color on the basic color, some effect of gradation.
I found the remained parting line forgotten to erase on the mantlet. I checked it with real tank photos, these kinds of line are not exist, and no line on the famous Tamiya’s kit. M24 Chaffee has a similar line. Ummm, it’s trouble…
That’s why I tried to make a mantlet canvas cover from facial tissue, Kleenex, no, to be precise it’s Kimwipes. Only information is the box art as the first photo.
Dried tissue paper is like this photo, It’s wrapped up with bandages.
Increasing thickness of the canvas with Tamiya Putty. Surrounded the edge of the canvas with the stretched runner, attached the chopped thin lead and rivets cut out from the extra parts of German tanks which I assembled past time and keep them.
Well, it’s not so bad after painting. Poor efficiency as that additional works after complete basic painting. I guess it’s OK, thinking efficiency is unrefined for enjoy the hobby. After complete the canvas cover, I felt a sense of accomplishment, likely to hand out the next kit.
This is TAMIYA M41 Light Tank Walker Bulldog I made 20 years ago. This kit is very easy assemble and I enjoyed it.
And this photo.
And I found this photo in my archive. It’s so sorry for went out of focus targeting to the face.
My M41A3 Walker Bulldog was completed. M41 have experience that has been operating in more than 20 countries worldwide. There are some countries that are still deployed.
According to the manual, this marking is the U.S. Army 1st Armored Regiment in West German, 1956. M41 had also been granted to West German till they developed the domestic manufactured tank named Leopard.
There was no indication in the manual, muffler cover was finished feeling pretty rusty. In the news last year in Bangkok, I saw the M41 tank to crush the demonstrations, that the tank’s muffler was also fairly rusty.
M24 Chaffee was difficult to counter the Soviet-made T-34-85, M41 has been developed as M24’s successor models during the Korean War. They are in use around the world and are produced in total about 5,500.
According to the instruction manual, 60 caliber 76.2mm gun and its T-muzzle break was able to conduct gas to both sides, in order to provide a clear view for further firing.
Canvas Mantelet cover is made from Tissue and putty. The fastener is made of shredded weight plate attached bonding rivets scrape down the excess parts of other kits. Wrinkles on the canvas is room for more research.
Periscope is painted blue and silver mixed. It would be better if there is clarity, gloss, glass like expression method.
Tank basic color is Olive Drab, and changed the brightness by the airbrush. And more with varying to do the washing.
Here’s the Alpine US AFV crew by the side of the turret. I have a question that there’s any problem with this uniform in 1950’s US tank crew, like this photo. I tried to fit this figure to the vehicle, I thought they were wearing a similar jumper in the Korean War.
1st Armored Division mark on the left sleeve. It was hard to draw with a brush, detailed pattern. I like this part that went surprisingly well conclusion. It’s unknown the figure’s marking and vehicle marking is matched.
His rank is corporal.
It is difficult even wanted to imitate the virtuosity of the sample painting of Alpine. But I think the atmosphere is good, anyway.
I was satisfied some extent compared with the Bulldogs I made it 20 years ago, posted on the making corner. Tanks but also good, I feel good to attach together with the excellent molding figure.
This is an excellent set of replacement workable tracks released by AFV Club.