A-7E CORSAIR II U.S. NAVY ATTACK AIRCRAFT HASEGAWA 1/48

It is a pretty old kit, Corsair II. I made it in June 2015.

The other day, I found this kit from our closet while putting away my down quilt using in winter. This 1/48 scale Corsair II “VALIONS” is a pretty old kit, I almost forgot it. This P series Corsair was out of product a long time ago, the current line up is Hasegawa PT47 which was renewed and gathered from a couple of Corsair old kits. This kit release year was 1987 so 28 years ago. The box is also tattered. If it’s a completely different kit inside, I’m laughing, but luckily all the parts perfectly in this box properly.

I went to Akihabara Yodobashi Camera for getting some new kit after eating Italian with my wife today. It takes about 15 minutes from my house to Akihabara by metro. Yodobashi’s very crowded unbelievable level, maybe half of the customers are a foreign visitor. In front of the cash register was lined over 80m at that timing so I gave up and withdrew today. I presume it looks very inexpensive price for foreign customers based on the current JPY currency level, I envy them.
Overall length is quite large as almost the modern jet airplane size. I started to assemble from extra fuel tanks and cockpit. It’s categorized modern jet attacker, but all was retired now.

I tried to put the included pilot in the cockpit immediately. I didn’t struggle to paint the tiny face painting which was wearing a full face jet helmet, oxygen hose is a nice feeling of this jet pilot.

Emergency levers are placed on the back of the head and the area between his thighs. I painted the thighs lever but it’s not good seeing. These days, decals of the operation panels of the cockpit side are included but it’s not. I finished with paint and dry brushing.
(30-May-2015)

Cockpit panel is displayed at the far end and almost invisible, but I painted the panel and meters as much as possible. When I glance it, not bad looking.

I took the shot from the right side.

Oh, parts color of the body and the main wing is different. I’m not sure the color changed while my storing or it’s the original. There is uneven surface and this adjustment procedure is essential.

Well, it’s pleasant the gap was cleaned. I tried to stroke my fingers on the surface to check the smoothness many times. Some of the mold lines are disappearing so I carve them later. To smooth the uneven surface, a motor tool is very helpful. Carefully working not too grind deeply.
(05-June-2015)

I’ll attach the front and rear flap downward. There are many gaps and parting lines exposed so now I’m repairing with epoxy putty.

The front and rear edge flaps are related mechanisms, so both are the same position up or down.

I am assembling drop tanks and other parts. I noticed this Hasegawa photo-etched parts frame is the same material as the Hasegawa small template which is used detailed molding on the surface of the plane. It seems a usable same way of template for simple line carving.

Since all the lower surface of the fuselage in the same color blue-gray and I mounted all the pylons and fuel tanks now.
Well, now Steam(online game delivery system company) is a large-scale sale and I’ve been playing PC game recently. And my building kit pace is getting slow. Based on these days weak Japanese Yen, game price is not so price busters. There is not a feeling of many discounts, but still, I purchased some titles…..
(17-June-2015)

I polished this canopy and attached to the cockpit for checking. There is a small gap, but almost better.

I did not understand the right way of mounting the landing gears small parts even reading the explanation. Probably, I think this is OK.

First, masking the flame of the cockpit, I painted mat black inside (actually not painted inside, looks like the inside of the canopy flame painted in black).

I forgot to clean the injection pin mark inside of the air intake. This position is normally not noticed while placing in my display. Only look up from below I can see this mark anyway I’ll try to smooth it.

I ground the surface with my motor tool like this, after spraying in white later, it’ll become neat and clean looking.
(21-June-2015)

Because I painted the landing gear hangar in white, I covered it roughly with tissue paper and masking tape before the basic painting. Is it too rough?

I painted basics-colored gray. I gave a fading expression for arranging as this time one color paint. I sprayed one rank brighter gray at random on the surface.

I presume the yellowing is probably the most common problem with old decals. Because it is ancient stock, decal condition changed. There seems to be no problem in black and the red part, but the white takes on yellow. The most worried is the clear area, it changed to yellow.
The date is Oct-1987…

I stuck a decal on the inside of a windowpane and left it for around two months. I don’t know how long exposed to the direct sunlight, but everyday 2hours in the morning, the last 2 months at least two-third days are fine weather. Now drying in the sun decal became very white, there seems to be no problem for us. I heard the method of dipping into the bleach for a short time, but I had no confidence in handling deteriorated very fragile decal, I took a low-risk sunbath method.

It can be beautifully pasted to remove the blank area as much as possible strength has fallen due to deterioration of the decal. The balance is difficult. It is not possible to recover by painting, once these decals cracked like dust.
I thought to polish the canopy more and detached only the large parts. After all, maybe I changed to open state canopy.

Yes, it may be a bad habit of AFV model lover, but I go on washing very tight. I’m slightly worried about what happens next…
Now, almost completed.
(25-June-2015)

Corsair II was completed. It is considerably old kit which I have been stocking for many years. Now we have a choice the Hobbyboss kit if you make. Corsair II was attacked aircraft engaged in operations of Vietnam, Grenada, Libya, and the Middle East, etc., now all aircraft are retired.

I am the type that the favorite food keeps it last. Corsair II is a quite favorite style, but I kept it too much. The box illustration was faded and some of the plastic colors were yellowed maybe. Anyway, it is an old but nice kit.

1/48 jet planes have the volume. I polished the canopy with great attention, it became a quite good feeling, there’s beautiful shining.

The low visibility painting is very simple. So I painted additional color fading expression and ink in the panel lines.

Single-engine, the main wing is the high wing placement, the air intake under the nose, they are the main characters of that period jet plane? I feel it’s different from F-15 Eagle and Flanker which I made before. A-7E has a retrospective atmosphere.

There is some area missing of ink wiping.

I referred to Hasegawa to buy the only decal because it changed heavily yellowed. Marking is ARGONAUTS VA-147 U.S.Navy at USS KITTY HAWK aircraft carrier.

After referring to Hasegawa, This kit product No P14 was out of product many years ago, some lineups are unified in PT47. Purchase the only decal costs me JPY1,500 (USD12.00), including postage is over JPY2,000 (USD17.00). I can buy one more whole kit if paid more, it’s considered the point.

After all, I didn’t order it because the decal had been considerably improved by direct sunlight exposure.
I suppose long-term stock of the airplane plastic model is risky… The importance of the decals seems the same as the F1 and the rally car models. Still, I have some old air models…

The exhaust vent of the engine is painted in burnt iron color and the cover of the inside is US airplane interior color. There is room for more improvement.

The side of the body has the hardpoints one by one, and I attached an AIM-9 sidewinder.

Although there are still inking someplace remaining the washing, and I wonder it’s matched with color fading.

Warning lights of the wing-tips were not clear parts but painted clear blue on the right, clear red on the left side after painted white. White based surface was vivid color improved.

The backside is the same color as the upper body. Fading expression and black ink in panel lines performed like the upper surface.

By the way, the pipe-formed thing on the left side of the body is the FLIR pod (Forward-looking infrared cameras) and use a thermographic camera that senses infrared radiation. The night offensive ability is enhanced.

There are many detailed decals of landing gear doors inside. It’s eye-catching point and very nice.

I painted clear blue only the middle of the front part canopy as follows the painting instruction.

The large jet airplane was difficult to build. It’s powerful when completed. Well, next I would like any WWII airplane.
(30-June-2015)