I was surprised to start with an explanation that I should cut all the molds of the degaussing line on the side and install the etched parts. I attached a very thin engraving cutter to the tip of the electric luter and shaved it lightly. If you use a paper file, the frame of the round window will be shaved. And it won’t work well. I will try to use photo-etched parts since I have already prepared them. If it is troublesome, I think plastic mold is fine and not do this work. This work is hard.
Etched parts installation of the degaussing line is a difficult task. I don’t know how it feels, but I attached it just now. I built about 10 ships, so I may be getting out of the beginner, but this is hard. It doesn’t work very well, but the work itself is interesting.
Well, I’m not good with etched parts because they are detailed, but I don’t feel like I’m making a ship model without them these days. At first, I was satisfied with only the handrail. I always put too much super glue and get it dirty. I don’t think this part is available now. That’s too bad. Well, since this is the case, I think it’s not bad to pile them up. Well, I can’t take many plastic models to the grave.
The bridge doesn’t have any parts to replace with etched parts, there are many handrails to be added later. There won’t be a problem if you don’t think about the detailed procedure so far.
I tried to fix it on the paint stand to prevent damage. With this kit, the point of bonding the first chimney and the bridge to the hull is quite difficult. In an earlier stage, the glued parts were interfered with each other and did not fit well. It was hard to see where the interference was.
The structure of the upper part of the ship, the bridge, the chimney, and the searchlight stand have been built gradually. When the plastic parts of the catapult base are attached to the hull, the etched parts of the outer-side electrical circuit interfere and do not fit properly. I will put it on properly and fill up the gap later, but the other side doesn’t fit well even if I cut off the etched parts and attach the catapult base. It just seems that the parts didn’t fit well. This Chokai kit doesn’t fit that well. It is quite difficult to assemble.
It seems that flashy large etched parts are used for the main gun. Why? Are they trying to improve the mold? Fujimi’s Etched Parts have different points to focus on depending on the kit, from my little experience in the past. Well, just replace what I can.
This time, I attached the small boats and the cutter boat first. Because I can paint the wood part from above. There are quite a lot of them, so if you glue them first, they will be cleared up. When I tried to install the steps of the etched parts after the adhesion of the boats, there was no place and forcibly installed. The small boat takes more space than I thought.
When the foremast was inserted between the bridge and the chimney to be glued together, the etched parts attached to the chimney fell off and irritated me. When the handrail was bent and bonded, it was cut off, and if it was held in tweezers, it flew away, and it was irritating, and the model ship would not be suitable unless the person was patient. Or maybe we don’t care too much. If I add another part to the broken handrail, it might work out. The whole thing looked better when I started to attach the mast. This kit is a little hard to assemble. It’s surprisingly tough.
This is very fine, it’s a lifebuoy, and the frame of the metal fitting to store it. This one is much more precise than the one I used to cut the covering of the electric cord into round slices to make a lifebuoy. It’s too fine to paint.
I use as many etched parts as possible while I struggle. The superglue came out and got dirty in various places. I would like to clean it with fine sandpaper before painting. I think it’s basically too much adhesive.
The other day, when I built the aircraft carrier Hosho, I had thought I would have given up. There were three double-leaf reconnaissance planes in this Chokai kit, too. It doesn’t seem to be difficult to glue because it’s made of plastic parts this time.
Since there were many metal parts this time, the metal primer was blown by airbrush. I think it’s good that there is no surfacer because it’s a warship color with strong covering power. I don’t want the mold to be buried.
The linoleum part of the heavy cruiser was finely painted using the brown color of Vallejo this time. It is difficult to mask the fine parts on the deck, so I think it is best to paint with a thin brush.
The heavy cruiser Chokai has been completed. Chokai is the 4th of Takao-class heavy cruiser. The ship’s name comes from Mount Chokai on the border of Akita and Yamagata prefectures in northern Japan. The view of the mountain top covered with snow is very beautiful.
At the beginning of the Pacific War, Chokai belonged to the Fourth Squadron of the Second Fleet and participated in the capture of the Malay Peninsula and the capture of Dutch territories of Borneo, Java, and Sumatra.
She joined the Battle of Guadalcanal in 1943. During the Battle of Leyte Gulf in October 1944, the central part of the hull was hit, and a torpedo triggered the explosion, and the rudder broke down, causing the ship to leave the front line. There is also an opinion that she was shot by mistake by battleship Kongo. Finally, Chokai was sunk by a friendly destroyer. It is believed that some of the crew members had transferred to the destroyer, but the destroyer was also soon sunk by the attack of the enemy, and no one survived.
At first, I try to do my best for the antenna, but I lose my patience in the middle. Especially, it is difficult to glue a vertical line from a long antenna on the way. I think it would be good if the atmosphere is more or less there.
If I make weathering like rust or raindrop a little on the side of the hull, I think it will make you feel like they are working hard during the operation. This Fujimi Chokai kit, including its etched parts, I had a hard struggle. When I finish it, It has a sense of precision and looks cool.
I am interested in models of tanks, airplanes, ships, military figures, I build it little by little when I feel like it. I am also interested in the history of war. My starting is Tamiya’s Military Miniature series in the elementary school.
From elementary school through university students repeatedly suspend and restart my modeling, it’s about 25 years of this hobby’s history.
Born in February 1970, I live in Tokyo. From February 2007 I was quietly doing a site called “Miniature-Arcadia”. It is being transferred to this blog with the same name from December 2016. My update pace is uneven, but please come to see here occasionally.