At this time I was busy with other things, I did not build many plastic models. I made it from July to September 2010.
Last time, I commented to make a car model next time, but after all, I’ve been making this tank recently. I found this at the model shop near my house. Dragon Models have put the Zimmerit Coating model to the market this time, I remember the type without Zimmerit was released around the last spring. This Zimmerit model was highly admired by many modelers and magazines.
Construction around the chassis was many parts, but it’s not difficult because I made the G type about one year ago.
Other websites commented that this model was designed with fewer parts than other Dragon’s kits. But you can see them piled up runner behind the kit. And this is the half amount, I have another pile beside my desk.
However, parts not used in this model are many when I read the instruction guide.
It’s a little difficult to attach the upper armor plates to the chassis. Especially parts F & M should be set to the back of the chassis and required sensitive adjustment. I could not fit perfectly in the back armor of the other parts but using instant glue.
I just completed to attache turret schurzen. I noticed that the barrel was fixed unusual angle around 30 degrees upper. Maybe glue was flowing into the movable joint. What a pity!
It’s already fixed as steady as a rock, but I tried to adjust with all my strength. Now natural-looking shape but small gap occurred.
Now, this is bonding the rubber caterpillar. I feel it’s 2 trucks longer than the natural slacking. It’s easier to adjust the length of the magic track, but the belt caterpillar was costing time free item. It takes about 3 minutes. This kit concept is easy to assemble with prepared Zimmerit Coating, so the attached belt caterpillar may be popular with many people. Anyway, I’ll use this belt caterpillar.
The thin aluminum board is in this kit for schurzen. This seems to be of good quality. I use the rapid bonding adhesive for joint hung handles with this metal board. Much more glue is not stronger bonding strength, but anyway I use fluent glue for joint them.
Starting to fix this caterpillar with the driving wheel, and next, I fixed it with road wheels. Finally, I cut off 1 or 2 pieces in length to make them natural-looking. It was utmost, though I can’t say it’s good-looking. But maybe the side skirt (schurzen) hide them.
It was easy to assemble because of the Zimmerit Coating was molded from the beginning. Maybe the quality is higher than by me. I suppose it’s an important element that we can finish up the assemble without time and burden.
I blew dark-yellow and khaki-green. Because the temperature of Tokyo is about 35 degrees every day, unbearably hot. But I should have opened the window of my room for complete ventilation. Mr. Color is a stronger thinner smell than Humbrol and directly inhaling is very bad for our health. It’s possible to fall down while making the model due to heatstroke.
In the meantime, I completed the airbrush paint roughly. Camouflage painting is the best part of making the German tank, isn’t it?
I’ll paint the detailed area with a small brush later, and I can amend the overflow of the airbrush at the same time. The Panzerkampfwagen IV has 16 trank rollers and airbrush painting was tough, but I suppose it’s easier than hand brush painting…
Ｉ chose the marking of the eighth regiment, second armor division in Normandy in 1944. The second armor division reshuffled to France for the replenishment in the Battle of Kursk, and they were annihilated in the Falaise Pocket battle in Normandy. This division finally surrendered to the Allied Forces though they were organized again and fought well in the battle of the Bulge.
I painted an orthodox three-color camouflage. It is a big vertical direction camouflage this time. This time, I chose Mr. Color to basic paint. I usually use Humbrol Color for basic paint, but while the washing, the same enamel thinner makes the paint coating wrinkle sometimes. Almost all Japanese modelers use Mr. Color, I suppose.
The decal of the kit attachment is high-quality made of the Cartograf. I made the decals stick by a decal fit after gloss coated. And after that, I use the mat coating. I can avoid the decal shining this time for using that process. However, I pasted the right side decals mistaken, it’s too close between nationality mark and turret number.
I used the dishwashing sponge for this tipping. It is a quite good tool for easily put on tipping for a wide area. I used the oil painting, but I suppose the Humbrol is better for quick dry. It is necessary to wait when Ｉ do washing and pastel work at the same time.
Because the schurzen was a monotonous plane, Ｉ put the change a little by expressing the tipping and eavesdropping. However, after Ｉ had applied every schurzen, Ｉ imagine the all crew except the commander were difficult to clear the situation outside the battlefield. It’s interesting these plates have number markings. Did they carry it by hand, though it’s a considerably heavy-looking plate even by one piece? Or maybe detaching them by crane…
The end is a shot of sideways shaking the turret. I could assemble this Dragon’s easily and finished beautifully though are a lot of parts.
Anyway, I have failed some points, this work was completed. Quite good looking !! (though it is the self-satisfaction.)
I am interested in models of tanks, airplanes, ships, military figures, I build it little by little when I feel like it. I am also interested in the history of war. My starting is Tamiya’s Military Miniature series in the elementary school.
From elementary school through university students repeatedly suspend and restart my modeling, it’s about 25 years of this hobby’s history.
Born in February 1970, I live in Tokyo. From February 2007 I was quietly doing a site called “Miniature-Arcadia”. It is being transferred to this blog with the same name from December 2016. My update pace is uneven, but please come to see here occasionally.